This way I can fix the dimmer to a toaster's side and get a reasonable 230V-converted Sunbeam Radiant Control.This is a compilation of Service Manual updates for SUNBEAM Radiant Control Toasters. I didn't want a bulky transformer next to the toaster. I'll check it with a scope able to calculate RMS values before continuous use, of course.īut if this works, is the smallest footprint and cheapest solution I could think off. So I'm going to put it around 25% duty cycle, which leads to an approximate 50% RMS value -> 115V RMS more or less. As the previous answer says, it's not enough to put this dimmer at 50% because that is NOT 50% RMS and definitely NOT 50% peak (it's the same peak voltage).īUT, as the toaster's electronics are so simple and they are mainly resistive heating elements, we just need to get a 50% RMS and don't care much about the peak voltage.
These dimmers just chop a % of the AC signal so I'm still getting the same 230V RMS AC (325V peak) but chopped (reduced RMS, but same peak). I don't believe it, but even if is just 2000W for a resistive load is more than enough for the Sunbeam, which uses less than 1500W. I happened to have one cheap AC dimmer supposedly rated to 4000W. I'm from Spain and the AC voltage is 230V RMS, so while I wait for it to be delivered I'm also looking for solutions to this. I got one Sunbeam Radiant Control in eBay for the exact same reason. 4x the heat 1/2 the time is still double the survivable heat, and will again fry the beautiful toaster. Now, what did I just say? Applying 4x the survivable heat, 1/2* of the time, let’s see. Now, somebody gets the bright idea “use a diode block half the AC waveform”. Needless to say this will instantly fry the toaster. Watt’s Law says if you double both voltage and current, you get four times the power/heat. Without a diode, running a 115V resistive load on 230V means you are doubling the voltage, and Ohm’s Law means you are doubling the current. That’s another example of way too far on the “cheap” spectrum. You really have to watch out first for the spec of the converter, and second for “cheap overseas trash” overstating its capabilities. At extremes, cheap “triac dimmers” for lights make a very ugly AC waveform, that works for incandescent lights intended for that same voltage, but is a mess for anything else. If it’s done electronically, there are a variety of ways to do it, in a wide spectrum of accuracy cheapness. Proper AC voltage conversion requires a transformer.
Do not use cheap “power converters” unless you very carefully watch their power output on a scope. Same way little car starter motors can start a big engine. You can overload a heavy transformer somewhat since your usage is momentary: Heat is why we care about overloading transformers the iron and copper have significant thermal mass and take awhile to get warm enough to matter. A proper transformer of sufficient ampacity is a fine answer. The good news is, AC frequency won’t be a problem, so you just need a reliable source of 115/120V. There’s a special hell for people who take such risks lol. As such, they should not be trashed by risky behavior with cheap “power converters” found on the Internet or at junk shops. They aren’t made anymore because of incompatibilities between their operating principle and a new UL White Book requirement. Even so, the switch may not be rated for 230V, though that’s probably not a huge issue. Nothing but a teardown will tell you if something like that exists.
#Sunbeam radiant control toaster series#
That would require finding two series strings of heating coils of the same resistance, and moving them from series to parallel. It’s unlikely that you can internally convert it.
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